Are you African?
Then, you most likely have the kinky or afro hair texture!
While you may not relate to the characteristics of straight or wavy hair, curly and especially kinky hair are our guys!
This post explores the kinky hair texture (afro hair, coily hair, or type 4 hair), from its various types to best care tips!
Are you unsure which type 4 hair you have (4a, 4b, or 4c)? Keep reading to find out!
What is the type 4 kinky or afro hair texture?
Kinky or afro hair is the term used for hair with very tight curls.
The hair strands are too tight to be simply called curls, so yeah, they’re called kinks or coils.
This hair type falls on Type 4 on Andre Walker’s hair classification chart.
So, don’t get confused:
Kinky hair, coily hair, afro hair, and type 4 hair all refer to the same hair type.
And in this post, I’ll use them interchangeably.
Kinky hair is found among Africans.
It tends to be dry, spongy, and prone to shrinkage.
But it’s not without sweet benefits!
We’ll get to that part soon, but first, let’s identify the different types of type 4 kinky hair.
Types of Type 4 Kinky or Afro Hair Texture
Kinky hair can be either 4a, 4b, or 4c.
Here’s what each one means.
Type 4a Hair
4a hair has well-defined coils.
It’s the “most curly” of the Type 4 family.
The strands are loosely packed, and each strand forms an ‘S’ pattern.
The result is a soft, springy texture that’s easy to manage when you know how to treat it right.
All that hair grammar means:
If you have or see afro hair that’s different from the usual and tends towards curly hair, that’s 4a hair!
A few other traits are:
- 4a hair is soft and fine, yet thick and dense.
- 4a hair shrinks to about 50% of its original length. That means shoulder-length hair, for example, will stop around the ears when dry.
Celebrities like Yara Shahidi and Solange Knowles have 4a hair.
Type 4b Hair
Next, there’s 4b hair, which is where the curls start to get a bit more adventurous.
Instead of the defined coils of 4a, 4b hair bends in sharp angles, creating a zig-zag pattern that’s more “kinky” than “curly.”
If you’re familiar with kinky hair extensions (like Ceres or kinky from Lush), that’s what 4B hair looks like!
A few other traits are:
- 4B hair can shrink up to 70% of its actual length.
- 4B hair is coarse, with less defined curls.
Celebrities like Esperenza Spalding and Yvette Nicole Brown have 4b hair.
Type 4c Hair
And now, we’ve reached the crown jewel of the type 4 kingdom — 4c hair!
This hair type is the most tightly coiled, with strands forming small, densely packed coils.
The coils are so tight that, in most cases, they don’t form a defined pattern at all. So if you have such tightly-packed hair that when it’s dry, you can’t see any curl pattern, you likely have 4C hair.
I’m no statistician, but I’d say most Nigerians have 4c hair.
A few other traits are:
- 4c hair can shrink up to 75% of its length, so it appears super-short after washing.
- 4c hair is very, very dense. But the strands can range from being fine to being coarse.
- Again, 4c hair has very tight curls with no clear curl pattern.
Celebrities like Lupita Nyong and Viola Davis have 4c hair.
Vela Tip: It is very possible to have a mixture of hair types on your head. In fact, most people do! Your front hair section may be 4b, with 4a in the middle and tightly coiled 4c at the back.
Should you check your hair type when it is wet or dry?
Wash your hair, then let it dry naturally without applying any hair product.
The resulting texture is your natural hair type.
What hair type do Nigerians with relaxed hair have?
If you have relaxed hair and you just read the description of type 4 hair, you may feel, “My hair is not coily, and it doesn’t shrink up to 50 to 75%, so I don’t have type 4 hair.”
Actually, you may do.
If the hair that grows out of your scalp (undergrowth) is coily, your natural hair type is type 4.
However, because you’ve applied relaxers, you’ve changed your hair texture to look straight or wavy.
The resulting look may range from type 1 (1a, 1b, 1c) to type 2 (2a, 2b, 2c).
But even when your hair looks like type 1 or type 2, it will not have their characteristics such as oiliness and lack of volume.
It will still have the traits of type 4 hair, like dryness and thickness.
Summary: Nigerians with relaxed hair naturally have type 4 hair, but the relaxers change their hair texture to look like type 1 or 2.
By the way, some people classify relaxed hair as a separate type called type 5 hair.
The Pros of Type 4 Kinky or Afro Hair Texture
People with type 4 hair enjoy these benefits:
Versatility
Afro hair is incredibly versatile.
From twist-outs, braid-outs, and Bantu knots to afros and protective styles like braids and twists, you can switch up your look in different styles.
And with each style, you bring out a different dimension of your hair’s beauty.
Other hair types simply pale in comparison. I mean, imagine trying to rock a galax-afro with straight hair. Just won’t work!
Volume and Fullness
The tight curls in type 4 hair create a fullness that many other hair types can only dream of.
This is also part of what makes it versatile.
Eye-catching!
Type 4 hair is a statement.
Imagine stepping into an event with a mane of full, tight coils — you just have to stand out!
This is a natural flex, especially if you love making bold statements.
Retains Styles Well
Once you find a style that works for you, type 4 hair tends to hold it beautifully.
You can keep braids and twists for weeks with little maintenance.
And even when you take them out, you can rock braids-out and twists-out.
Unlike other hair types that may slip off when you try to plait them, type 4 hair has a firm hold.
The Cons of Type 4 Kinky or Afro Hair Texture
On the flip side, here are some of the challenges of type 4 afro hair texture.
Drynessssssss
I typed that so long for emphasis because, yeah, type 4 hair tends to be very dry.
That’s because the curler the hair, the harder it is for natural oil from the scalp to travel through the strands.
And afro hair has the tightest curls.
Shrinkage
Type 4 hair can shrink up to 50-75% of its actual length. So, most times, the hair looks shorter than it really is.
While this is part of what makes type 4 hair versatile, some people would really prefer to flaunt their actual length.
Vela Tip: You can use these tips to reduce shrinkage in your 4c natural hair.
Time-consuming Maintenance
Let’s be real – maintaining Type 4 hair can be a full-time job.
From wash days that can last hours to daily moisturizing and styling, it requires dedication and hair love to keep those strands in good shape!
Tangling and Breakage
Tight curls equal easy tangling.
And when you don’t handle tangles gently, they cause breakage easily.
Trouble Finding the Right Products
Not all hair products are created equal, and finding the ones that work best for Type 4 hair can be a hassle.
It often involves a lot of trial and error, and what works for one person might not work for another.
Best Products for Type 4 Kinky or Afro Hair
Finding the right products for type 4 hair is a whole crash course on its own, but here are a few favorite picks.
Mielle Leave-in Conditioner
This leave-in conditioner by Mielle is “super moisturizing” and makes detangling easier.
The product contains pomegranate and honey, two natural ingredients that’ll nourish your hair.
Past users mention that this leave-in conditioner gives a superb effect when applied to damp hair.
Note of caution, though: you may find it too thick if you have thin hair.
Mega Growth Deep Conditioner
Mega growth produces both deep conditioners and leave-in conditioners.
As someone who has used both products, I can confidently say they are great for type 4 hair textures.
I wrote my mega growth leave in conditioner review here.
L’oreal Shampoo and Conditioner
This shampoo and conditioner set leaves the hair soft, a big need for type 4 hair!
It’s sulfate-free, so it won’t dry out your hair. It’s a favorite for many users, especially those with colored hair.
With a 4.5-star from over 12,000 buyers on Amazon, it sure is worth a shot.
African Pride Moisture Pre-Shampoo
Looking for a product to detangle your kinky hair before washing?
Here’s your guy.
Past users say this product helps them detangle their knotted hair very easily.
It contains aloe and coconut water; ingredients that moisturize the hair.
Note that you must wash out this product after use; it is not a leave-in product.
Cantu Coil Calm Detangler
What’s a list of type 4 hair products without one from Cantu?
Cantu is a renowned brand for natural hair products.
This product is designed to detangle hair easily, and many past buyers say it does so effectively!
It also works for curly hair textures.
However, a few customers say it left their hair greasy.
How to Care for Type 4 Kinky Hair Texture
You only enjoy the type 4 hair benefits when your hair is healthy!
Dry, weak type 4 hair with many split ends will not make any nice statement or retain styles well.
So, here’s how to keep your coils super healthy!
Moisturize
Remember that type 4 hair is very prone to dryness?
To fight it, you need to moisturize your hair effectively.
- Get a spray bottle and mix leave-in conditioner, water, and your favorite hair oil in it.
- Spritz your hair daily or as often as your hair styling allows.
- Deep condition your hair at least once a month.
Gentle Detangling
Type 4 hair is delicate and prone to breakage, especially when tangled. So, do these:
- Always start detangling from the ends of your hair and work your way up to the roots.
- Use a wide-tooth comb or a detangling brush. It’s even best to use your fingers first before going in with a comb.
- Detangle your hair when it’s damp and coated with conditioner. Don’t detangle when dry.
Protective Styling
Keep your hair in protective hairstyles to reduce manipulation and encourage hair growth.
Examples are braids, twists, and cornrows.
However, don’t keep protective styles for more than six to eight weeks to prevent matting.
And keep moisturizing your hair even when it’s styled.
Regular Trimming
Regular trims will prevent split ends from traveling up the hair shaft.
Schedule to trim your hair every two to three months or as needed.
It’s best to let someone else, a professional, trim your hair.
At the very least, follow a hair-trimming guide.
Gentle Cleansing
Emphasis on gentle because you don’t want to strip off the little oil on your type 4 hair.
Sulfate-containing shampoos will strip the hair of moisture, so use sulfate-free shampoos only.
Also, consider co-washing (washing with conditioner) between shampoo sessions to maintain moisture levels. And don’t wash too often; once a week is fine.
Nighttime Care
You must also protect your kinky or afro hair texture from friction and retain moisture at night.
Here are a few tips:
- Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase, or wear a satin or silk bonnet/scarf to reduce friction.
- Don’t go to bed with your hair free and loose. Put it in a loose pineapple (high ponytail), or twist/braid your hair to bed.
Scalp Care
Regularly massage your scalp with oil to stimulate blood flow and promote hair growth.
Vela Tip: Don’t apply too much product to the scalp to avoid build-up and clogged follicles. After all, healthy hair starts from a healthy scalp.
Healthy Lifestyle
Your hair’s health is connected to your overall well-being.
You’ll need food for healthy hair growth, like nuts, vegetables, and fish.
Also, drink plenty of water to keep your hair and scalp hydrated from the inside out.
And remember that lots of stress can negatively impact hair health, so find ways to manage stress.
Coily Beauty
Type 4 hair is identified by coils, ranging from the defined coils of 4a to the tight, no-definition coils of 4c.
Also called the afro or kinky hair texture, this hair type is versatile, eye-catching, and excellent at retaining styles.
Of course, it has its downsides, but with the right care routine, you can keep type 4 hair healthy and pretty.
Until the next post, stay fabulous, and keep loving your beautiful coils!
Hey, hair lover, this post may contain affiliate links. So if you buy a product through a link in the post, I’ll earn some commission at no extra cost to you.
